The Art of Watch Collecting: KINSMEN's Manifesto

By Shoyo Kawamura | Co-Founder, KINSMEN

The Kinsmen manifesto. Co-founder Shoyo Kawamura introduces the company’s philosophy on luxury watch collecting in Hong Kong, bridging the gap between auction-grade discipline and the secondary market.

There is a distinct moment in every collector's life when an interest shifts into an obsession. For my brother Shoki and myself, it didn't happen in a boardroom or an auction hall. It happened during weekends to the mall with our father, instead of dragging him into Toys"R"Us it was window shopping at the watch boutiques.

It started with a Tag Heuer Formula 1 boy-sized model on a rubber strap—our modest but pivotal entry point into the world of Swiss horology. But as we grew, so did the stakes. We realized that simply buying watches wasn't enough. We wanted to understand the craftsmanship, the history, and the chaotic, opaque market that surrounds them.

We founded KINSMEN in 2018, a time of great uncertainty in Hong Kong. We saw it as an opportunity, a commitment to being here for the long run. Our aim was to start a business driven by passion, a passion that kept our brotherly bond tighter than ever and to spread the love and knowledge to the community of collectors that share a united vision with us. The name KINSMEN came to us at ease after a long night of searching reflecting the ethos of why we decided to start the business in the first place.

This is our perspective on Watch Collecting, viewed from behind the curtain.

The Genesis

"It starts with a feeling, but it survives on knowledge."

It is rare for siblings to share the exact same intensity for a niche passion. For us, it was organic, but our professional approach was deliberately different. The founding idea was simple: "Do not put two eggs in one basket".

While we started together, fascinated by pure aesthetics, we took divergent paths to eventually reunite. I chose the institutional route, spending years at an Auction House to learn history, academic rigour, and the strict discipline of a specialist. Shoki, meanwhile, entered the "jungle" of the grey market. He learned to navigate the streets in a world with no textbook. His early focus was on moving vintage watches and jewelry that had been sitting in a safe for over 30 years and making as many transactions as possible to build a strong network of clients and dealers. He learned that sourcing is a 24-hour, fiercely competitive part of the business.

KINSMEN is the marriage of these two skill sets. We combined the street-smart agility of a modern dealer with the forensic scrutiny of an auction specialist. This duality allows us to bridge the gap: we understand the "hype" because we live in the market, but we vet the product with the severity of a historian.

We dove into the academic rabbit hole at age 16. We bought the books before we bought the watches. We studied Patek Philippe history before we could afford to own a Calatrava. That early education taught us a vital lesson: Visuals hook you, but scholarship keeps you safe.

The Human Element

"The transaction is the least important part of the deal."

I cut my teeth at one of the world's premier auction houses. Spending over four years there changes how you look at a watch, but it also taught me a fundamental value I brought to Kinsmen: Teamwork. Success doesn't come from an individual, but from a solid, ethical unit moving, growing and sharing together.

But externally, our philosophy counters the typical dealer narrative. In an industry often obsessed with "flipping" and asset values, it is easy to forget that this is, at its core, a service industry and a passion. This is where our founding principle of brotherhood comes to life.

To us, the transaction—clicking the button to buy—is the least important part of the process. What matters is everything that leads up to it and everything that follows. We don't just sell watches; we travel with our clients, we dine with them, and we build friendships that transcend the object itself. Whether you are a seasoned investor or a newcomer, the three approaches are identical: transparency, honesty, and a genuine desire to connect.

When you buy a watch from us, you aren't just acquiring metal; you are entering a circle of trust in an industry that desperately needs it.

Sunny Wang 王陽明 (@sunnyboyyy) with Shoyo Kawamura in KINSMEN Showroom in Hong Kong
Hasbulla (@hasbulla.hushetskiy) with Shoki Kawamura in KINSMEN Showroom in Hong Kong

Navigating the Secondary Market

"Information is the key, and execution is the second bit."

The secondary watch market can feel like a minefield. It is often opaque, intimidating, and rife with "super clones", doctored papers, “franken” watches and even reengraved serials. Our advantage is our deep connection to the community. As Shoki puts it, "Information is the key, and execution is the second bit."

Beyond safety, we have a specific stance on curation that separates us from the pack. In this industry, most dealers pick a lane: they either specialize in the nuances of Vintage Watches or they ride the wave of Modern Hype. It is rare to find a house that handles both on a serious level. This diversification is our strategy. During the market explosion of recent years, we rode the wave by sourcing what was in trend, but we never got caught in it because our inventory is balanced across modern, neo-vintage, vintage pieces as well as independents.

At KINSMEN, we have the experience and knowledge to deal in both vintage and modern timepieces confidently. However, managing such a diverse inventory requires a single, unifying standard. We always approach curation by assessing condition and provenance first, and only then do we look at rarity.

Condition is your safety net. If a watch is extremely rare but the quality is lacking, we consider that a red flag. When the market slows down, "average" pieces become illiquid. However, a watch in pristine, honest condition will always find a buyer, even in a bear market.

The KINSMEN Due Diligence Protocol

The Eye Inspection

An initial aesthetic assessment to examine the overall condition of the watch with a specific focus on the case and dial as well as the bracelet if the watch is fitted with one.

The Microscope

We hunt for the smallest irregularities invisible to the naked eye focusing on the dial and movement.

The Paper Trail

We cross-reference serial numbers. In an era of high-quality fake documentation, verifying the database is critical. (Throughout the years KINSMEN has compiled a database of all rejects) 

The Heartbeat

Finally, the movement goes on the timegrapher to check accuracy and all complications are tested for its functioning before the photography and cataloguing process. 

Vision & Taste

"Make it Second Nature."

We are often asked by young collectors: "Where do I begin?" The answer is not about a specific brand, but a specific feeling. You must start somewhere that makes you slightly uncomfortable. As Shoki learned after receiving his first significant watch—a Cartier Santos from his parents—there is a huge responsibility that comes with ownership. He later lost that watch in a house robbery and reflected, "money is one thing, but sentimental value is another thing that money can't buy." That experience taught him to value the object beyond its price tag.

Commit to a piece—whether it’s a high-quality Swiss entry-level watch or a mechanical Japanese timepiece— that requires a bit of sacrifice. This respect for the object is the true starting point.

Once you have the watch, you can apply what I call the "Routine Test."

Wear it every single day until it becomes second nature. It should be the last thing you pick up before you leave the house. If, after two weeks, you find it left in a drawer, perhaps watch collecting isn’t for you. But if it becomes second nature—if you feel that special weight on your wrist and miss it when it's gone—then maybe it is a sign that you have officially entered the rabbit hole. That is when you start reading the books, studying the history, integrating into the community and find yourself going to every auction chasing for the next trophy for your collection.

Once you have established your routine, you must learn to navigate the noise. The watch market has evolved into a high-speed environment where trends are more seasonal than ever and social media amplifies the "hype". It is easy to get swept up in FOMO, but a smart collector pauses.

At KINSMEN, we try to stay ahead of this curve by identifying trends before they explode, which is why we see a massive shift towards Independent Watchmaking and Neo-Vintage pieces. 

Ultimately, do not buy for the flip. Speculators panic when the market dips; true collectors sleep soundly. If you buy based on quality, condition, and personal connection rather than a trend chart, it’s a win. 

Pursue your watch collecting journey with us.

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